Let’s talk exfoliants!
Today I want to talk about skin exfoliation. Is it good for your skin or is it not? To be honest it’s a bit of both.
So, what is exfoliation? It’s the removal of dead cells from the surface of the skin.
Do you need to exfoliate? Absolutely.
As I’ve mentioned before in my YouTube video (Why Bother with Skincare?) our skin is our largest organ and we should care for it the way we do our other organs. And it’s constantly in a state of regeneration – our cells turn over every 30 days, revealing new skin underneath. But it won’t do us (or our skincare products) any good if the dead skin sits on top. Removing those cells:
- Unclogs pores, which cause breakouts
- Reveals new, younger skin
- Evens skin tone and texture
- Helps products absorb better
- Minimizes pores
This is particularly important when you return from a sun holiday. Most people run a mile away from exfoliating after vacation because they want to keep the tan. But folks that tan is actually scorched skin. And it’s keeping all the skincare goodness – the stuff we need to rehydrate – from getting in there and doing it’s job!
However, there is a lot of confusion and misunderstanding about what constitutes ‘safe’ exfoliation. I’m not talking sandpaper here. There are a plethora of great products that are formulated for our delicate skin.
There are 2 main types of exfoliants:
1. Physical
This requires a rubbing or scrubbing action to manually dislodge the loose skin cells. Scrubs, sponges, brushes like Clarisonic, even wash cloths fit into this category. They give instant brightness and smoothness to the skin.
However, these can be tricky (and even harmful) for those with sensitive skin or conditions like roacea, eczema or dermatitis. If you fall into this category, don’t use anything other than soft wash clothes for cleansing.
Personally I don’t have sensitive skin so I like to use physical scrubs a few times a week.
YourGood Skin Brightening Exfoliating Wash
I keep this in my shower and generally use on Wednesday mornings. I love, love, love this. It’s part of a Boots range of fabulous products that cost next-to-nothing. It says it’s gentle enough for everyday use but I wouldn’t go there, myself. It has a creamy texture and the tiny silica particles are wrapped in moisturising goodness (hello glycerin - one of my favourite ingredients that just doesn’t get enough attention). You’re to mix with a little water and gently rub around your face. But don’t ever use too heavy a hand.
Skinfood Black Sugar Mask Wash Off
On Sunday I like to go a step further. This sugar-based mask has slightly larger granules so it requires an even lighter hand. I start with damp skin and gently rub this onto my skin with a little more warm (never hot!) water. Then I leave it on for about 10 minutes before jumping in the shower. My skin feels like silk when I get out. Lovely.
Please note on physical exfoliants:
- DO NOT use products with large particles (like walnut shells)
- Only do once or twice a week
- Be gentle
2. Chemical
Acids and fruit enzymes (or synthetics) are used to break down the bonds between skin cells, so no scrubbing is required.
There are 2 main types – BHAs and AHAs – that target different skin types. If you’ve oily skin the BHA salicylic acid is generally recommended, which goes deep into your pores to dissolve excess sebum (that’s what mixes with dirt, dead cells and bacteria to cause blemishes).
I am more on the normal/dry side (thank you very much, 49-year-old skin) so I use 2 different types of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). They are best for dull, discoloured, aging skin. On the days I don’t use a physical (there are 5 left), I alternate between 10% lactic acid and 5% glycolic acid.
The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA 2%
Because the molecules are larger, lactic acid doesn’t penetrate the skin as deeply other acids, therefore they are often easier to tolerate on sensitive skin. I started a few years ago with The Ordinary’s 5% version (also containing hyaluronic acid, which helps to attract and hold moisture in the skin). I graduated to this 10% version about a year ago and all is well. I dispense about 4 or 5 droplets onto my palm, pat onto the other palm and the press into my skin – face, neck and chest.
Glycolic is stronger than lactic acid because the smaller molecule penetrates deeper into your skin. The percentage tends to be lower in order to reduce irritation. I’ve been using 2 different products, both of which I’m really enjoying and will continue to repurchase.
Beauty Pie Dr Glycolic Multi-Acid (6.5%) Micropeeling Pads
These pre-soaked pads are super easy to use (so no excuses!). I start at my forehead, swiping across and down, over the throat and chest, then turn the pad over and do the reverse, finishing back on my forehead. It contains 5% glycolic, niacinamide (great for uneven skin tone) and polysaccharides to sooth and calm skin.
Pixi Glow Tonic
This cult classic is new to my routine - I’ve been meaning to try it for ages but kept being drawn in other directions. I’ve started to rotate this product in and so far it’s playing nicely with others. I soak a small cotton pad and swipe per above. This 5% formulation also contains red ginseng and aloe vera to sooth and hydrate.
If you don’t currently have this step in your routine, I suggest you consider adding it. If you’re interested in establishing (or already have) good, long-term skincare habits, this is a must.
A few more things to note:
- YOU MUST WEAR SPF. Frankly you should be doing this anyway but you will be more susceptible to the sun
- Start slowly. If you’re new to exfoliants, start with a few times a week a build from there. Most products say they’re suitable for daily use but I always start slowly with new products to ensure my skin can take it
- Choose the right products for your skin (see above)
- Be gentle with physical exfoliates. You can create microtears in your skin if you use too much force
Go forth and exfoliate. Your skin will thank you.
