Skincare myth-busting

There is so much advice out there for how to take care of our skin and a lot of it, quite frankly, just isn’t true. Today I’d like to bust some of those myths wide open.

I’ll be honest; a lot of what I read or hear bugs the hell out of me. Partly, it’s because a lot of these ideas make sense. I can see why they’re believable. So it’s not always easy to spot the fake news.  

When I sat down to thin about some common misconceptions, I couldn’t stop. There are just so many. But today, I’m keeping it to five.  So, here goes:

1.   You don’t need SPF if it’s not sunny 

This is the one that bothers me the most. If it’s daytime, you need to wear a sunscreen. Simple as that. It needs to be broad spectrum, which means it fights UVA (rays that cause premature aging) and UVB (rays that cause burns). Both contribute to skin cancer.  You don’t want either of them. 

And while SPF 30 is enough, I’d do 50. And that’s because most of us don’t apply enough product to get the full coverage we need. You should apply ½ a teaspoon for face and neck and again for chest. It’s more than you think. So slather it on!

Plus, you should wait 15 minutes before layering any makeup or heading outdoors as it needs time to soak in. 

And do not rely on sunscreen in your makeup. Chances are you don’t wear enough makeup for it to do its job (here’s hoping).

2. Dark spots are a caused by aging

If you’re reading this and don’t know what I’m talking about, lucky you. As we get older, our skin can begin to reveal dark spots on our face and back of hands. It’s extra melanin – what naturally gives our skin its pigment - resulting from sun damage in previous years. 

For me, it started to surface in my early 40s. Oh joy. It’s really from the sun worshipping I did growing up in Florida without sunscreen. It was the 70s and we didn’t know then what we know now. 

Luckily, there are products we can use such as vitamin C and niacinamide to help brighten our skin. 

2.   Medical grade skincare are the only products that work

This is a pile of hooey. There is no such thing as medical grade skincare. There are no descriptions from governing bodies that regulate skincare. 

The FDA only mentions products you can apply to your skin in 2 ways:

o  COSMETICS – this relates to any product you can purchase over the counter. This includes vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol and acids.

o  DRUGS – these are products that require a prescription. These products have gone through rigorous clinical trials and require FDA approval. And because these products are generally much stronger, ongoing doctor care is required. 

So unless you’re getting a script from your dermatologist or GP for items like tretinoin or high percentage glycolic acid, you’re being sold a pup. 

It’s likely the idea of  ‘medical grade’ skincare is a legacy. For years you could only purchase certain products from establishment under a physician’s license. For example, Skinceuticals C E Ferulic was only sold in clinics and dermatology offices.  But now, you can get that just about anywhere (even Amazon) so no medical attention is required. Therefore they can’t be medical grade.

And speaking of those products you purchase at the clinic or derm office, they’re making money on those sales too.  Perhaps they were our earliest influencers?

So I urge you to compare ingredients of so-called medical grade products with those you can find elsewhere. Many drugstore and high street brands contain the same ingredient list. DON’T BE FOOLED!

4. Your skin adapts to products and they eventually stop working

This just isn’t true. If you find the results you once noticed aren’t as prominent anymore, it’s most likely because it worked. 

For example, if you introduced hyaluronic acid into your routine and noticed the plumpness or increased hydration, it’s because the HA was doing its job. It can only do so much and goes into maintenance mode. However, if you were to remove it from your routine, you’d likely see the results of its absence. 

Instead, I believe we should add or remove products based on our skin’s needs. For example, if I feel my age spots are too prominent, I’ll add vitamin C for brightening. If my skin is dull and textured, I step up my alpha hydroxy acids to remove dead skin. .

You wouldn’t stop eating broccoli after a week because your body has gotten enough vitamins would you?

5. If a product tingles, you know it’s working.

Nope, wrong. That usually means it’s irritating your skin and I’d stop relatively quickly. Some companies even add ingredients because it’s thought to be true. Look out for menthol, peppermint and alcohol.

My general rule of thumb - if it tingles, best to stop.

However (there’s almost always a however), some ingredients are naturally more irritating such as acids and many types of retinoids.  But if you know that going in, you can introduce at low levels and low frequency to reduce any irritation. Low and slow is always the name of the game.

That’s just a few of the myths I’ve heard on my skincare journey and trust me…I could go on.  Don’t believe everything you read (or hear)!